![]() MG: We have relatively heavy precipitation and that is always a bit of a challenge. What is it like to grow grapes in such an Alpine climate? We also have Riesling, but that came more through the influence of our very good friends Ernie Loosen, Helmut Dönnhoff, Wilhelm Weil, and a few others. ![]() ![]() What grows optimally here are Burgundy varieties. Climatically, Graubünden is the northernmost region of German Switzerland. The Rhine also once curved its way through the whole valley, so our soils are a mixture of alluvial sediment and a lot of slate. Long ago, streams washed slate down from the mountains. The Rhine flows past us in a relatively flat valley the vineyards sit at the foot of the Alps. Most are built of stone, with vaulted cellars. The house we live in, for instance, was built then. The next year, people started to rebuild. In 1622, the whole village burned to the ground. How would you describe Fläsch to someone who has never been there?ĭG: It is a little wine village of just barely a thousand inhabitants. TRINK's Valerie Kathawala spoke by phone from New York with the Gantenbeins in Fläsch to unpack these legendary wines. The tiny subregion (and AOC) of Graubünden is surrounded by stunning Alpine peaks that climb above 4,000 meters in elevation, rightfully earning it a reputation for stellar skiing and hiking, but also making it surprising terroir for the reds that dominate here, especially Pinot Noir, as well as niche quantities of Chardonnay and Riesling. This grouping of 17 mountainous eastern cantons, linked by a common dialect of German and a certain ruggedness of outlook, accounts for just under 20% of Switzerland’s total wine output. But the true secret may be their uncompromising vision and sheer joy in doing exactly what they want - together.įläsch, the village where the Gantenbeins live near most of their vineyards and architecturally pioneering winery, is tucked into the northeastern corner of what’s known as German Switzerland. It is a blend of handwork and precision that reads very Swiss. How has this modest couple, working in unheralded terrain, become the emblem of Swiss wines par excellence?Īfter nearly 40 vintages, Daniel and Martha have fine-tuned every element within their control - from impeccably farmed Burgundy clones to custom-built machines that ensure the gentlest handling of the grapes from vineyard to press. Before the wines are even bottled, each and every one is already sold to long-time customers. The couple painstakingly grow and make minute quantities of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling on 6 hectares of high Alpine valley in German-speaking Switzerland. Weingut Gantenbein Gantenbein and the Secrets of Switzerland's Cult Wine By Valerie Kathawalaįor most of us, it would be easier to climb the Matterhorn in flip-flops than to lay hands on a bottle of wine made by Daniel and Martha Gantenbein.
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